Archive for the ‘Garden Tips’ Category
Nitrogen (N)
The most essential of all nutrients for leaf and stem development. Nitrogen consumption depends on a plants growth cycle and in a vegetative growth phase of plant nitrogen consumption is greatest. Hydroponic nutrients solutions labeled as “grow” or “flower” contains more concentrations of nitrogen. Nitrogen deficiency is the leading cause of plant growth in indoor hydroponic garden systems. Yellowish, soft and weak plants and leaves are tell-tale signs of nitrogen deficiency.
Half-strength nitrogen solutions are ideal for plants between growing phases. This will prevent plant stretch while it’s switching its energy over to flower development. Normal feeding is resumed once the plant reaches the flowering stage.
Phosphorous (P)
Phosphorous plays a major part in root and flower development. Phosphorous deficiency signs are slow and stunted plant growth. Phosphorous is crucial to a plants flowering stage. “Bloom” type formulas contain a 0-50-30 concentration, containing no nitrogen and high levels of phosphorous and potassium.
Potassium (K)
Different in action from the previous two nutrients, it doesn’t feed the plant directly in any specific stage of growth. It merely facilitates plant intake of other primary and secondary plant nutrients. Potassium deficiency cause irregular plant growth and susceptibility to pests and disease. Potassium inhibits fruit production and should be lessened during this stage.
Secondary Hydroponic Nutrients
Calcium (Ca)
Facilitating and filtering the absorption of other nutrients Calcium is one essential nutrient. It is also a natural base that increases the pH level is needed. Commonly used in the vegetative phase of plant growth, calcium consumption is decreased during the flowering stage.
Magnesium (Mg)
Mainly for chlorophyll production in photosynthesis, deficiency causes yellow leaves.
Sulfur (S)
Yellow leaves are a sign of sulfur deficiency and are only used in small amounts.
Iron (Fe)
Used in small amounts, iron deficiency is similar to sulfur deficiency. Yellow leaves are the general signs of deficiency. High pH causes iron absorption problems so constant monitoring is advised.
Molybdenum (Mb)
Mainly for nitrogen absorption and converts nitrates to ammonium
Boron (B)
Facilitates carbohydrate transport in the phloem, it is not essential and maybe disregarded. Boron overdose causes plant kill, it is not found in regular soils and only supplemented.
By : The urban gardener
Improper use of fertilizers is the common cause of many plant problems. Inadequate amounts cause weak and under nourished plants while an amount above desired quantities may burn and even kill the plant. Good judgment and decisions are required when a plant grows. Below are guidelines for applying nutrient solutions.
Hydroponic nutrient solutions are normally sold in concentrated forms. They are then added to the water supply with a specific ratio. Ideally, 150-600 parts per million consists a normal concentration of hydroponic solution. Normally sold in two or three parts because direct combination is not possible. Remember to mix nutrients into water first before combining, never combine two nutrients together.
How Much Hydroponic Nutrient Solution?
There are specific proportions for each plant type and phase of its growth. Advances in nutrient solutions have greatly improved the precision of concentration based on a plants growth stage. Hydroponic nutrient solutions are usually sold in “grow” or “growth” formulas for the vegetative phases and “bloom” or “flower” for the flowering phase of the growth cycle. Remember to switch to the bloom formula during the bloom stager to increase yields exponentially and max out your plants capacity.
In poor growing conditions weak nutrients are recommended. Low lighting, overheated gardens, crowding and root bound plants. Weak nutrients are also ideal for newly rooted cuttings and for transporting plants or when they are in the transition of growth cycles.
Normal, healthy plants can be used with regular strength solutions in ideal growing conditions. Increasing nutrient solutions could be utilized to enhance efficiency of your gardens. An ideal system such as high quality lights, proper aeration and ventilation when present is the only instance wherein you could increase the level of nutrient solutions to improve plant growth. Gradually increasing the nutrient solution is advised as not to burn the plant roots.
Various additives are also available for optimum plant growth. Maintain good grow logs or records of types of additives used, when applied and results. This enables you to measure its effectiveness in the future. If there are any negative effects with experimentation, flush or rinse your hydroponic system immediately.
How to measure Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions
Electronic conductivity of dissolved minerals in the water is the usual basis for determining nutrient solution. Parts per million (ppm) is the unit of measure. But this is just a general way of measuring conductivity in the solution and not the actual strength of individual minerals. This is the main reason why hydroponic nutrient solutions are sold as a mix of 3 parts. Once the desired mix is achieved it is very convenient to change the concentration to achieve proper conductivity.
Overuse of Hydroponic Fertilizers
Flushing out your growing medium is the first intervention once any signs of over fertilization are observed this is to prevent further damage to the plant. Clean water is used for flushing until signs of nutrient deficiency are observed in the plant. Normal feeding and schedule is then resumed. Some hydroponic systems require a top down flushing to completely clean out the plant.
2 weeks before your expected date of harvest, flushing is recommended for the plant. It is done to leave your harvest free from the hydroponic nutrients solution taste.
By : The urban gardener
Efficiency in comparison to traditional soil growing systems would be one of the major advantages. Commercial production and just plain hobbyists would find that moving from regular soil growing methods to the modern Indoor Hydroponic systems to be more beneficial. Freedom from uncontrollable variables such as the weather, climate and time of day would be the most important factor over traditional growing methods. Farmers in Middle East countries would be able to grow plants such as vegetables only previously grown in tropical countries. Light and amount of growth nutrients to be absorbed by the plants could be optimized for best results without wasting any resources. Plant care could be individualized as to the amount of nutrients and light they receive at any time of the day. Plants grown in pots or plots tend to reach a growth plateau, wherein they become root bound and transplanting them is the best solution. This may present the individual with a sense of frustration and could be messy. Expert advice and appropriate planning beforehand could eliminate such unwarranted difficulties experienced with soil based planting.
Expenses made at the start of the project can be offset by the advantages in the long run. Fertilizers with their ever rocketing cost are major source of expenses in plant cultivation. Plants only take the nutrients they can absorb so maximum nutrient absorption without the risk of putting too much fertilizers is eliminated. But the risk of putting too much nutrients which leads to root damage remains, so proper nutrient feeding is advised.
All in all, the hydroponic system of growing plants increases plant production and quality of the crops. Nutrients essential for plant growth are readily available, proper ratio and distribution is assured resulting to better efficiency. Pesticides and plant diseases can be avoided as no soil is needed. Soil is an ideal medium for infection and disease, so harm to both plant and the individuals are reduced. Expenses are also reduced as pesticides are eliminated so overall; cost effectiveness is enhanced and make hydroponics a more economical way of growing plants.
For the environmentalist, the hydroponic system of growing plants also presents a more desirable and alternative way of plant production. The effects of growing plants through this new system has proven to be less polluting as it totally removes the need for pesticides and leaves the soil free from contaminants. Scientifically tests also show that plants grown through the hydroponic system contain more vitamins and minerals compared to those grown through fields.
Productivity is also increased with the use of Indoor hydroponic systems. Limited spaces for plant cultivation are maximized because smaller pots are used. Indoor hydroponic systems utilize different types of automated watering systems like drip, pumps and other means, allowing for a low maintenance operation. Spaces not available for plant growing can be utilized and together with regular soil gardens or fields, maximize each growing season.
Types of Indoor Hydroponic Systems
Wick or NFT
The system most often used, operated and maintained with the outmost ease. It requires very little setup and maintenance. This is done by simply cutting a hole in the bottom of the pot and a wick is inserted. The wick’s other end connects to the water reservoir below the pot.
Reservoir or Ebb and Flow System
A growing medium is directly placed into a pan filled with water and nutrients. It is easy to maintain, the pans contents needs only to be replaced every few days in order to maintain an effective system. Root adsorption is maximized with root surface in contact with the water, oxygen and nutrients are readily absorbed.
Drip Systems
The most common of all systems, drip systems are the most likely choice of hobbyists and professionals alike. The nutrient solution is kept in a container below the plants and is distributed by a pump to each plant thru a drip irrigation system. One type would be the Recovery type system; excess nutrients are recycled and channeled back into the reservoir. Another would be the Non-recovery type where excess system is not funneled back into the system, one advantage of this is that is a low maintenance system. Ph and nutrient concentration remains stable but is not as economical as the recovery type system.
Aeroponic System
Technically, the aeroponic system is the most advance of the three. Plants are suspended either without a growth rock or growing mediums. This permits the plant to breathe more air through the roots. Nutrients and water are introduced by timed misting. Root health is maintained by a timer and is set at intervals of a few minutes.
By : The urban gardener
There is a strong belief among many people, that Australian Natives are beautiful but have no perfume. A stroll through the bush will dispel that rumour easily.
The fragrance of crushed leaves and scented blossoms can be almost overpowering at times. But many of the natives have a more subtle fragrance; you have to be close to them at the correct time to appreciate the flavours and scents.
The perfume of native plants is often produced at different times of the day or night. Perfumed native flowers include many of the Grevilleas (some like G. biternata and G. G. buxifolia have a strong honey-like perfume others like G. buxifolia have a light fragrant perfume), Boronias ( e. g. B. floribunda, B. serrulata and B. megastigma), Sowerbaeas (Vanilla Lilies), Xanthoreas (Grass Trees), Banksias, Eleaocarpus reticulatus (Blueberry Ash) which has a strong almost aniseed scent, Hakeas, Pittosporum undulatum (Native Daphne) — the perfume of this species may becoming overpowering in the evening –, Leptospermum species (e. g. L. flavescens), Homoranthus species (which has a Baked Biscuit scent) and Hymenosporum flavum (Native Frangipani). Many of the white flowering Eucalypts, Melaleuca and Callistemon species have a strong honey scent.
There are a number of fragrant orchids particularly the Dendrobium species: these tend to be strongest from early morning to the early afternoon. While some of the Cymbidium species such as C. suave have a good perfume during the middle of the day). The Sarcochilus species have what is best described as a spicy aroma.
The aroma released by some plants foliage is not revealed until it has been disturbed, crushed or brushed against. These include the Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) which is probably the best of all native lemon scents and is also used commercially as a cooking ingredient, while the foliage of B. anisata is strongly scented like aniseed; Eremophilas, Eriostemon species, Prosantheras,
Leptospermum petersoni (Lemon-scented Tea-tree — also good as a hedging plant), Darwinia citriodora (a light lemon scent) and some Melaleucas (Paperbarks) also have scents.
Of course you can’t forget the Eucalypt family with its famous eucalypt scent, which is redolent of our bushland. But now many other countries are growing vast plantations of them for timber, firewood and revegetation programs on every continent bar Antartica. One species, the E. citriodora gives off a strong lemon-come-eucalypt scent while Agonis flexuosa has a combination of eucalyptus and peppermint scent.
Calomeria elegans has been used as a substitute for lavender. Some species of Boronias also have strongly scented foliage.
And let’s not forget the grassy type plants, the lomandra’s and the Grass trees, both of which give a lovely honeyed smell when in flower.
So why not think about using some fragrant native plants in your garden. Not only will you get the benefit of supporting your local environment. But you might also get other benefits, like attracting birds, other wildlife and butterflies to your garden.
By : Bare Bones Gardener
Why go and spend a fortune at the nursery on new tools, when there is probably a wealth of unused stuff tucked away unused in your own kitchen, or someone you knows kitchen that will more than adequately do the exact job you want, without having to spend a cent.
Just make sure that anything taken from the kitchen really is not wanted there. As well as the fact that such stuff is on a one way permanent trip out to the garden shed.
Here are just a few suggestions of stuff that are useful kitchen refugees,
Old dinner knife for digging weeds out from between concrete sections or pavers.
Old kitchen fork for light weeding in around tight places or where you do not want to disturb root systems that are close to the surface.
Good sharp kitchen knife or a pair of kitchen scissors are great fro dividing up clumps of plants, or for taking cuttings off of a branch.
Kitchen tongs can be used to pick up thorny cuttings or to help you repotting thorny plants like cacti.
Serving tray or placemats to keep things organised or for carrying produce, cuttings or even weeds.
Potato Masher for pushing past a thorny plant or rose.
BBQ or Carving Forks for digging out stubborn rooted weeds and root vegies.
Kitchen funnels for pouring various liquids into containers or for accurate pouring around plants. or to get seed or even small screws & nails into storage packets or bottles.
Chopsticks make great little pot stakes (metal and wooden skewers work too), or construction sets even for some jobs.
I’ve seen bamboo placemats and chopsticks cut down to make scenery pieces for bonsai planters, along with old aquarium ornaments.
Set of measuring cups and measuring spoons are great as scoops for fertilizers and potting mixes.
Icecream or soup scoops for measuring and scooping potting mix in around new potplants.
Egg rings and biscuit cutters for shaping growing fruit just for fun, or as a simple handheld hoe for light weeding in around plants.
So theres a few things which can obtain a second life out in the gardenshed and garden, nstead of being stored for years in a drawer, or being thrown out or passed on to a charity store.
By : Bare Bones Gardener