Posts Tagged ‘growing’
Soil less Mixtures
There is a great amount of soil less mixtures available, which contain different ingredients. Sphagnum moss, perlite, and vermiculite are the most widely spread hydroponics components, used in such mixtures.
Being organic, soil less growing media are usually used for container gardening wick systems or on-recovery drip systems. It is also possible to use soil less mixtures in recovery systems, however, it is necessary to remember that because of very fine particles in such mixtures, they can clog tubes, pumps and drip emitters, when used without a good filtration system. By the way, according to the urban gardeners, one can use panty hose as a filter: just fit it to the return line and to the pump inlet, and all the tiny particles will be filtered out.
Most soil less mixes form a good growing medium for multiple hydroponic and organic gardens, because they can hold water well, have great wicking action, and, at the same time, they provide a reasonable amount of air to the roots of growing plants.
Coconut Fiber
The popularity of coconut fiber as growing medium increases rapidly around the world. Being the first totally organic growing medium, providing highest performance for hydroponic systems, coconut fiber may soon become the most popular growing medium ever. It is interesting to note that coconut fiber is, actually, a waste product, which contains the powdered husks of coconuts.
In comparison to rockwool, coconut fiber is characterized with higher oxygen capacity and water retaining. These features are important advantages for hydroponic systems with intermittent watering cycles.
Coconut fiber also contains a lot of root stimulating hormones, thus offering some protection against fungus infestation and other root diseases. The mixture of 50% coconut fiber and 50% expanded clay pellets is considered to be the perfect growing medium.
However, it is necessary to underline one precaution when buying coconut fiber. Avoid purchasing a low grade coconut fiber, which is very fine grained and contains a high level of sea-salts. Such coconut fiber will have negative and disappointing effect on hydroponic system.
By : The urban gardener
Gardeners experience proves that the mixture of vermiculite, perlite, and organic potting soil (loose 100% organic soil mixture is also suitable) in equal proportions is the best for the successful organic hydroponics gardening. Such mixture offers the perfect upward capillary action of water and supply of CO2 and oxygen. Organic soil in the upper medium layer provokes microbial action.
Some growers practice mixing organic nutrients (e. g. worm castings) into the upper medium part. Others just distribute them on the surface of the grow medium and then spray them with water. Another way is to mix nutrients with half a cup of water and pour onto the top of the medium. Any of these methods ensure proper nutrients entrance into the soil mixture and good absorption by the plants primary roots.
The upper layer of the medium is also called “soil alternative”, as it is the place where the nutrients are supplied to. It is treated as a standard soil container. To improve the capillary action of the water delivered by the lava rock at the bottom, it is recommended to spray the soil alternative once or twice a day with water.
Creating your organic gardening using hydroponics system pay special attention to the level of the pumped water, this must not moisten the upper part of the medium. If this happens, the nutrients, delivered to this soil part of the growing medium, will be washed out into the water reservoir, becoming unavailable for the upper part of the plants root system.
The usual watering cycle takes about half an hour to make the whole upper part of the medium wet. If this time is not enough, you may set the timer to prolong the cycles. It is also possible to spray the upper half of the growing medium with water in addition to the regular pump-triggered watering. Remember that soil-based part should never be soaked in water – being moist is enough for growing organic plants.
By : The urban gardener
Shade grasses
The first and most important step for growing grass under trees is to use the right variety of grass seed or sod for the site. Some grasses grow better with full sun and others grow better in the shade. Grass growing under trees will be shaded all year under evergreens and during the summer growing season under deciduous trees. Fescue and special varieties of some grass types can tolerate shade more than others. Warm season grasses like Zoysia grass and Bermudagrass don’t do well in the shade. Read the label when choosing a seed mix for under a tree and pick one that grows in the shade or has a high percentage of shade grass seed in the mix. Learn what grass types you already have in your lawn and which ones are best for your climate. Don’t struggle trying to grow a lawn with varieties that barely survive your environment.
Mowing
It is recommended that the grass lawn under a tree be mowed a little longer than the grass that is growing in full sun. Grasses growing in shady areas will have thinner blades and will not fill in as well as sunny spots. Mowing a little longer will keep the grasses healthier and stronger.
Raking and clean up
When raking and removing leaves and debris from under a tree use a soft rake and don’t rake too hard. The finer softer blades and thinner patches growing beneath the tree are not as strong and can be damaged more easily than the rest of the lawn. Using a grass catcher on your lawn mower is a good way to clean up without raking.
Fertilizer and feeding
The feeder roots of most trees are growing in the same region as grass roots and can begin about 12 inches away from the trunk of the tree and out past the drip line. Competition for nutrients and water will be the greatest here. Feed the grass beneath a tree using a regularly scheduled foliar fertilizer application. This keeps the fertilizer available to the grass with less competition between the tree and grass roots in the soil. If grass is pale or weak it may only need a foliar micro nutrient to correct the problem. A yearly soil test will keep you up to date on the needs of the lawn. Take one test under the trees and one in open areas for comparison.
Water
Monitor the water needs of grass under trees more carefully and spot hand water when needed. Even if it rains, rainfall may not reach the ground because a good proportion of the drops are collected by the leaves and branches of the tree before they can reach the ground. The upper surface of the soil dries out more quickly because of evapotranspiration and grass will suffer more during periods of drought than deeper rooted plants. The shallower roots of grass often lose the competition with tree roots for soil moisture.
Tree biology
Some species of trees may exude chemicals that inhibit or prevent other plants from growing under them. There are also changes to the pH of the soil under some trees. Identify plant family and species of your tree and look it up on the internet to see if any of these factors are at play. If you find that your tree affects the soil, then do what you can to counteract the effects or choose grass varieties that can grow under those conditions.
Pruning to increase light
Get professional advice on proper pruning and thinning of the tree to allow more sunlight to filter through to the grass.
If all else fails
Use other landscape structures, pavements or ground covers and shade plants in the most difficult areas.
Tender Green Garden Beans are a bush bean that is renowned for its fine string less texture. They are good for late panting and they tolerate dry weather well. These growing tips can be used for any type of string bean bush plant.
Tender Green Garden Beans will take 8-10 days to germinate and should be planted one inch deep. The seeds should be spaced three inches apart and the row spacing is two feet apart. From planting to harvest, is 54 days. Most Tender Green Garden Beans grow to a height of two to three feet; they will grow wide and bushy so keep the rows a standard distance apart. Tender green Garden Beans grow well in a 12-inch diameter flowerpot and adding a support post for the plant with help your beans grow straight and disease free.
Sow the seeds in average garden soil in a sunny location, after all danger of spring frost. For earliest seedlings, start seeds indoors in peat pots one month before outdoor planting time. If you do not have peat pots, they will easily start in small disposable cups filled with 2 inches of flower and vegetable potting soil. Keep the soil moist and place the cups in a warm location until the seeding are three inches tall. Then transplant the seedling into your outdoor location. Thin seedlings when they are three to four inches tall and the final spacing of the plants should be six to eight inches apart.
To help the seeds germinate, let the seeds rest in a warm location for 3 to 6 days in a plastic ziplock bag with a wet paper towel. Once the seeds sprout, you can easily place them one bean per cup, cover with one inch of soil and let them grow to three to six inches tall. At this time, you can move them to your outdoor location. Small flowers will appear on the plant where the beans will sprout.
Tender Green Garden Beans will be ready to pick, eat and cook in 60 days. Mature pods are 6 inches long. Pick the beans when they are most tender and keep picking beans regularly to help the plant to keep producing. The beans can be eaten raw, steamed or in soups and casseroles.
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So, How Easy Is It Growing A Clean Lawn?
The answer is not easy in the begining. As it is with anything that is good, it is usually very difficult in the beginning, but as time goes on, things will become much easier. First of all, it is something that you and your family and their family will enjoy year and most likely for one or more generations. The unique thing about using organic fertilizers for feeding your lawn is that there will be no harm or mild poisonings from the weed killers used on chemically fertilized lawns. The children don’t even have to fear eating a couple of blades of grass or dandelion leaves. The lawn is “clean”. True, it will take time to reach this level of “organic fertility”, but, one requires a good sense of patience.
Can Anyone Grow An Organically Fed Lawn?
For those with patience and a lot of faith, the answer is yes. The very first step is to set aside a small area in the backyard, not necessarily hidden from view, but not standing out like a sore thumb. Now, you either build a box of wood, or stack 3 wooden skids end to end and nail, screw, or bracket them together. They should stand sturdily without falling in the wind. The next step is to place all of your future grass clippings, leaves, twigs and clippings from pruning and anything else, which is “organic”. If you have an already accumulated mound of leaves from previous years, all the better. Layering in an inch or so of potting soil from a local department store garden center, or even something you have put together yourself can be added a little at a time. Regular watering of your “compost pile” is very important, but of course can be eased off during wet periods.
Adding worms found on your lawn or in any leaf pile will aerate the pile and help to turn it into nice organic humus ready to be layered on your existing lawn or a new patch you have started in a selected area of your yard. Remember that when you spread some of your newly formulated mixture, which should have become well composted after a few weeks of sitting in your well mixed organic materials along with the purchased potting soil, you should also spread an inexpensive grass seed mixture, even atop your old lawn. You do not have to spread much of your compost humus on any area of your lawn, and probably a half-inch at a time will do, since it is very fertile. By adding some on a regular basis, you will begin to see results and that after about 3 years, your lawn will be “totally” organic, which is what the USDA requires for growing organic foods.
What Gain Is There From All This Labor?
First, your lawn will slowly become free of chemicals, pesticides, insecticides, etc.. Also, by discarding and mixing all your discarded table scraps after each meal, like lettuce and cabbage leaves, egg shells, etc., you will help the environment and also save quite a bit of money on commercial fertilizers. Even human or animal hair clippings can be used in your compost pile to feed your lawn. Human hair, I am told contains almost 38% pure organic Nitrogen, which will really green up a lawn and speed up leaf growth. Every time you do your seasonal yard cleanup, you’ll surely find a lot of organic refuse for future use on your lawn and also in a flower garden. Be patient.
When someone mentions “organics”, the first thing that comes to mind is organically grown foods. Just think that as organically grown foods are free of pesticides, insecticides, etc., so are organically grown lawns.